If your heart is warm with happiness, you'll need a glass
wine! If sorrow chills your heart, have two! After centuries of neglect,
Avignon, a provincial city in France, is rediscovering its rich ecological
heritage. In the 14th century, Pope John XXII built a summer chateau in
the hills above Avignon, and its ruins remain the most recognizable monument
in the famed wine village of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, today. However; since
the Popes' return to Rome in the 15th century, the city has concentrated
on other forms of culture. These days, it is most celebrated for its music,
museums, history and theater festivals.
My fianc' and I were visiting the Papal Palace in Avignon
where we strolled through the immense building that; the 'exiled' Pope Clement
V; began constructing at the beginning of the 14th century. As our tour
proceeded, monastic (monastery) simplicity and austerity (strict teachings)
give way to bright frescoes (hand painted) and flamboyant ceilings, signs
of how the initial Papal asceticism (strict practices) faded over time.
As we headed toward the exit, we made time to stop at the palace's new wine
shop, The Boutellerie. James, my fianc' knows a lot about American, Italian,
German and French wines, however nothing of Rhone.
We're finally realizing that gastronomy and wine can
be part of our cultural attractions, as well. The Boutellerie, which opened
in July 1999, is the premier sign of this renaissance. More than 40 winegrowers
from the nearby vineyards of Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Gigondas are represented.
This shop occupies a grand setting, the former Papal artillery room. A tasting
of five wines is offered for just $5. Director Joachim Autard, a former
winegrower, chatted with us and the other guests in English and in French.
Outside the palace, Avignon is a lively, cosmopolitan
town of about 100,000 people. A new, high-speed TGV train line which travels
at speeds over 186 mph, provides frequent service from the City of Light
to the magnificent Mediterranean Sea. Thick medieval walls, circle the old
city. Pedestrians have free run of many lovingly maintained old squares,
closed to traffic, but open to caf', and in the center of town, a splendid
double-decker carousel. During the July and August theater festival, these
squares explode with street productions of puppets and marionettes, dance,
mime and cabaret, as well as serious, Broadway caliber presentations.
Historic Sites include Palace of the Popes, the Pont
d'Avignon( Pont de St. Benezet),the Opera, the Hotel de Ville, various churches,
Cloitre St. Louis, the Rocher des Doms. If you like the Smithsonian in Washington,
DC, then you'll love these following Museums. The Musee en Images (more
than 1000 images of Avignon). Musee du Petit Palais (painting and sculpture
from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance). Musee Calvet, Musee Lapidaire
(archeology, prehistoric times, paintings from the 16th to the 20th centuries).
Last but not least some activities to enjoy would be theater, opera, art
galleries, horseback riding, tennis, squash, ice skating and boat rides
on the Rhone River.
A visit to Avignon is a wonderful way to kick off a wine
tour of this part of the Southern Rhone. From downtown, it takes just 20
minutes to drive north to Chateauneuf-du-Pape. This picturesque village
sits above the Rhone River, and the old castle is visible in the distance.
You'll find lots of shops owned by winegrowers there, most offering only
their own production, often at inflated prices. An exception is Maison des
Vins, located on the main street. It represents 60 different estates, and
tastings are FREE. We were one of those people who didn't have the time
to visit lots of different estates. We wanted to have a place where we could
sample and buy a wide choice of Chateauneuf wines.
For visitors who had more time, the tourist office handed
out clear maps with directions to the major estates, most of which were
open to the public. Some, such as Chateau La Nerthe and Chateau Mont-Redon,
don't require reservations. A few of the most prestigious names, such as
Chateau du Beaucastel and Chateau Rayas, do -- and are selective about who
they welcome. However; with so many others to see, this shouldn't dampen
anyone's enthusiasm.
From Chateauneuf, it was only a short ride to the region's
other leading wine village, Gigondas. You will definitely need to budget
some time to stroll the narrow, cobblestoned streets of the villages. Rochegude
offers views of vineyards and distant mountains. Gigondas isn't the only
lovely town on the eastern side of the Rhone River; from its left bank there
fan out many delightful Provincial wine towns -- Seguret, Cairanne, Rasteau,
Vacqueyras, Rochegude. They feature medieval castles and churches and sand-
and rust-colored houses with tile roofs. They are surrounded by an ocean
of vineyards growing on flat land and low hills. In Grignan, in the Drome
department, medieval streets run in circles around a massive castle that
rises up on a hill. Stop by the Village Provincial Miniature, a re-creation
of turn-of-the-century Provincial village life involving more than 1,000
little figures posed in vignettes (An unbordered picture, often a portrait,
that shades off into the surrounding color at the edges.) In Coustellet,
east of Avignon, there's an interesting museum devoted to lavender.
After a day of sightseeing and tasting, relax at one
of the finest restaurants or hotels in the area, where tourists are made
to feel welcome and comfortable wherever they go. If you want to take a
dip in a pool at sunset or dine at the edge of a vineyard, then this country
is for you. Or perhaps you would prefer to stay in Avignon, which pumps
with energy by night as locals and tourists such as ourselves, strolled
the tree-lined streets and people-watched from dozens of outdoor caf'.
Once in Avignon, you won't want to leave, and the town is too interesting
to let you go. Avignon is ancient, full of history, life, youth, art, music
and activity. This corner of the Rhone Valley is big, and there's something
here for everyone.
